RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Ever since founding Gjelina chef Travis Lett left the Venice restaurant group five years ago, speculation and rumors on his next act have persisted — until now. Meet RVR (“river”), Lett’s ode to California-Japanese cooking and the sequel to MTN (“mountain”), his previous restaurant in the same space. If the backstory and nomenclature read a tad precious, the restaurant definitely isn’t. RVR is one of the most stylish, most delicious, and most surprisingly fun restaurants to land on the west side in quite some time.
The Vibe: RVR is already one of the toughest tables in town: This past Saturday, folks were lined up for walk-ins well before the 5p opening, as there are no available reservations to be had before 9p over the next couple of weeks — the dining room was buzzing by 6.
A large black-and-wood L-shaped bar is the focal point of the sleek 75-seat restaurant, but elements like hanging wood lanterns, midcentury-inspired booths, and black-and-white marble tabletops lend texture and warmth to the space. Early on, light poured in from windows looking out to Abbot Kinney, but after sunset, the room had a welcoming glow and a lively buzz. The servers look (and act) like they’re genuinely having a good time. Nuanced touches like a visible vinyl collection reinforce a vibe not unlike hanging out in Lett’s extremely cool living room.
The Food: The menu starts with small plates, among which are a crisp pork tonkatsu, lacy-edged gyoza, and hand rolls (order the one with citrus-and-shiso-scented snapper). But produce rightfully gets the most real estate on the menu. Lett has always known his way around a vegetable, and that mastery is still apparent at RVR.
Highlights included a punchy Caesar-esque radicchio salad with anchovy breadcrumbs, and grilled Japanese sweet potatoes bathed in miso butter, showered with chopped scallions and still-fluttering katsuobushi. There are a handful of ramen options as well, but stick to an order (or two) of the smoky, charcoal-grilled meat and fish, like tender chicken thighs glazed in ume and lemon, or Monterey Bay squid with lemon, ginger, and chile. Then, maybe one of Lett’s creamy gelatos — and call it a night.
The Drinks: In addition to the sake and (mostly French) wine list, Nina Wongsuwat’s cocktails are exceptional. There’s a selection of highballs using Japanese whisky, including one with house-aged ume. The Gibson is accented with house-made pickle brine. And the plum Negroni, made with Roku gin and house shiso bitters, might be one of the most balanced and nuanced versions of the drink in LA.
The Verdict: Venice’s prodigal son returns with a buzzy new restaurant that merits repeat visits — if you can book them. –Karen Palmer
→ RVR (Venice) • 1305 Abbot Kinney Blvd • Dinner Mon-Sat 5-11p; Sunday 5-10p • Reserve.