Starting from scratch

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: Launched in L.A. last decade, Sushi By Scratch’s contemporary twist on omakase has long since spread its wings. In addition to its Encino flagship, the restaurant now has locations in eight other cities, including Miami, Seattle, and (as of last month) New York City. But in early October, chef Phillip Frankland Lee returned to Beverly Hills (where he and his wife Margarita Kallas-Lee opened their first restaurant Scratch|Bar in 2013) with a three-month Sushi by Scratch pop-up at the SLS Beverly Hills. 

The Vibe: Rambunctious and playful, the staff guides guests at the 10-seat bar through a meal showcasing a mix of tradition, ingenuity, and skilled sourcing. Dinner kicks off in the hotel’s lobby with a welcome cocktail and amuse bouche, after which guests enter a dimly lit private sushi den with white tiled walls and personalized name plates.

The Food: A 17-course nigiri menu ($185 per) includes a scallion-topped crispy nori cannoli stuffed with bluefin tuna, and the much-talked-about hamachi with sweet corn pudding and sourdough breadcrumbs — a perfect example of the chef’s precise, creative, and slightly mischievous style. Kinmedai (golden-eyed snapper) with yuzu miso gel and lemon zest also stands out. Drink options include Japanese whisky cocktails, beer, wine, and sake pairings.

The Verdict: A modern sushi experience at a gorgeous hotel in the heart of Beverly Hills. Though slated to run through the end of the year, word is that it may become a permanent fixture — stay tuned. –Caitlin White 

→ Sushi by Scratch (Beverly Hills) • 257 N Canon Dr • Seatings Wed-Sun @ 5p, 715p, 930p • Reserve.